HIŠA FRANKO

Hiša Franko, the crown jewel of Slovenia’s culinary scene, has long been celebrated for its innovative approach to gastronomy and its embodiment of Slovenian terroir. Nestled in the picturesque Soča Valley, this culinary haven has earned prestigious three Michelin stars, a feat that places it among the world’s elite dining establishments.

The Restaurant

My culinary adventure began, as I approached Hiša Franko’s charming, rustic building, set against a backdrop of rolling hills and lush greenery. The restaurant’s setting is nothing short of idyllic, offering a sense of serenity that immediately made me feel welcome. As I stepped inside, I was greeted by a warm, cosy interior, with wooden beams, soft lighting, and an inviting fireplace that added to the homely atmosphere. The aesthetic was less about the formal grandeur one might expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant and more about creating a comfortable, intimate dining experience.

Adding to the special charm were the funky, colourful, and unconventional uniforms of the service staff that seemed to mirror the restaurant’s innovative approach to fine dining. These uniforms added a playful touch to the evening, blending contemporary fashion with a rustic appeal. It is the kind of place where the staff’s attire feels as curated as the dishes themselves, contributing to the overall aesthetic of Hiša Franko.

The Menu

Hiša Franko’s tasting menu is renowned for its focus on local ingredients, many sourced directly from the surrounding landscape. Chef Ana Roš, a pioneer of modern Slovenian cuisine, is committed to celebrating the region’s rich culinary heritage through a series of courses that are as visually pleasing as they are tasty. Each dish tells a story of Slovenia’s terroir, from the mountains to the sea. The current summer menu '50 shades of red', while creative, focuses heavily on vegetable-based dishes and trout, so I found myself missing some of the variety of flavours and ingredients that I enjoyed at other three-star establishments, such as game, sweetbreads, or caviar. While I do appreciate that not all of the above examples might fit into the strong regional focus of the cuisine and menu, at a price point of 325€ and with 9 out of 15 courses being solely vegetarian, the food cost to value ratio seemed a bit off to me. Even the excellent summer truffles that may be sourced in Slovenia or the neighbouring Istria region of Croatia were used so sparingly that I was tempted to ask if maybe a few flakes got lost in the kitchen. The fact that the vegetarian menu comes at the exact same price point, further underscores my irritation with the overall pricing concept - an observation not unique to Hiša Franko, but rather to a (growing?) number of fine dining establishments. Overall each dish was meticulously crafted and plated in an expert way, but besides the hay-baked potatoes that stood out not only because I was encouraged to eat them with my hands, but because they offered an interesting balance between sweetness and deep umami flavours, the menu left me somewhat wanting. Having read so much about the pickling and fermentation methods that chef Ana Roš has perfected, I had expected to find a lot more exciting and maybe daring dishes on the menu.

The Wine List

Hiša Franko boasts an impressive wine list, showcasing some of the finest Slovenian wines alongside international selections. The sommelier, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, was a true connoisseur of the local viticulture. Unfortunately, throughout the evening, there was a recurring theme: my wine glass remained more empty than full. Despite his evident expertise and charming demeanour, the sommelier had a tendency to forget to refill my glass, leaving me longing for more wine that was actually supposed to complement each course. I had chosen my own wine selection of outstanding Slovenian winemakers and thus did not follow any of the two wine parings on offer, this should however not have impacted the flow of wine service at a restaurant of this level.

The Service

The aperitif is served in a somewhat informal setting in the bar area of the restaurant and the waiters there try to create a lively and engaging atmosphere to set the mood for the evening. The moment you are seated at your dinner table however, the overall mood and atmosphere changes to a much more formal and muted fine dining setting, which creates a stark contrast to the beginning of the evening. Service at Hiša Franko, while undeniably friendly and earnest, had moments of awkwardness during my visit. There were occasional lapses in timing, and at times the service staff even appeared unsure or hesitant. These little quirks did not overshadow my overall experience, but they added a layer of unexpected unprofessionalism to what one might not expect at a three-Michelin-starred establishment. For me, service does not have to be formal these days, even in a Michelin-starred restaurant, but if one decides to take a more informal approach, the execution has to hit the mark even more so, and changing between two concepts during the course of a dining experience adds an additional level of challenge.

My Verdict

While visiting Hiša Franko was undoubtedly a memorable experience, it did not quite leave me with the urge to return. The creativity of the menu and the warm, cosy atmosphere were noteworthy, yet the somewhat simple ingredients used, the inconsistencies in service, and the slight missteps in execution made me feel like the restaurant did not fully live up to its three-Michelin-star status during my visit. Nevertheless, I can see why it is a favourite for many and I highly respect the sustainable work they are doing, not only at the restaurant, but also in the local community.

The breakfast!

Surprisingly, the breakfast the next morning offered more of a 'wow' factor than the dinner itself, with its fresh, local ingredients and comforting flavours, providing a delightful and satisfying start to the day. This unexpected twist left me with a bittersweet feeling -appreciative of the overall experience, but not quite convinced to make another journey back...