RICHARD EKKEBUS X THOMAS SEIFRIED

Some dinners feel celebratory. Others feel instructive. And then there are rare evenings that feel quietly important, as if you are witnessing a conversation between minds rather than courses on a plate.

The collaboration between Richard Ekkebus and Thomas Seifried at Mandarin Oriental Vienna belonged unmistakably to the latter.

Richard Ekkebus, Culinary Director of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong and the force behind Amber, brought with him the precision and depth that earned Amber its three Michelin stars. His cuisine has always been defined by restraint, purity of product, and an intellectual clarity that never sacrifices pleasure. Thomas Seifried, Executive Chef of Mandarin Oriental Vienna, met him not in imitation but in dialogue, grounding the menu with confidence, structure, and a sense of place. What unfolded was not a guest appearance, but a true exchange.

The opening amuses set the tone with quiet authority. An ibérico consommé perfumed with lemongrass was clean and reassuring, followed by baby squid interpreted through the familiar language of pan con tomate. A warm Gillardeau oyster arrived enriched with caviar, chives, and bone marrow, indulgent yet composed. A silken soy milk panna cotta with bell peppers and Szechuan pepper introduced a gentle tension between comfort and spice, while foie gras paired with hibiscus and beetroot with gingerbread added depth without heaviness.

The seafood courses were particularly eloquent. Hiramasa sashimi with miso ginger aioli was lifted by pear and a kimchi sauerkraut vinaigrette that added brightness rather than disruption. Icelandic sea urchin came layered with cauliflower, lobster jell-o caviar, Kristal caviar, and wakame tapioca crackers, a dish that balanced luxury with playfulness, richness with restraint. The baked langoustine followed, paired with brown butter vongole custard, fennel, and bottarga sauce marinière, delivering warmth and marine intensity in equal measure.

One of the evening’s quiet peaks was the Normandy scallop, hand-dived and served en coquille lutée with black Périgord truffle. Jerusalem artichoke, pickled wet walnut, scallop skirt garum, and a beurre blanc brought earthiness and umami into perfect alignment. It was a dish that asked for attention and rewarded it fully.

The main course of lapin and Styrian prawn ballotine, accompanied by braised lapin leg fricassée, artichoke, savory herb jus, and truffle, demonstrated the strength of Seifried’s kitchen. Unfortunately I had to substitute this dish, since I do not eat rabbit.

Dessert transitioned seamlessly rather than abruptly. Williams pear and yellow bell pepper sorbet refreshed the palate before saffron crème brûlée with passion fruit, ginger, and honey closed the plated courses with warmth and elegance. The petits fours were thoughtful rather than excessive, ranging from jasmine green tea and bitter orange to Maracaibo chocolate, pistachio délice, buckwheat and sesame madeleine, and hojicha pastry cream. Each one felt intentional, never decorative.

Throughout the evening, the wine pairing supported rather than performed. It followed the rhythm of the menu, enhancing acidity where needed, softening richness where appropriate, and allowing both chefs’ philosophies to remain at the forefront.

This dinner was not about spectacle or ego. It was about discipline, mutual respect, and a shared understanding of luxury as something quiet and considered. Richard Ekkebus brought the intellectual refinement and global perspective shaped in Hong Kong, while Thomas Seifried anchored the experience with confidence and clarity rooted in Vienna. Together, they created an evening that felt seamless, mature, and deeply satisfying.

A reminder that true excellence in fine dining often speaks in a low voice.