SOIL: ATHENS

Tucked away in a quiet courtyard, Soil offered one of the most welcoming and intimate atmospheres I’ve encountered in Athens. The evening air was warm, and the courtyard—surrounded by greenery and soft lighting—felt effortlessly cosy, like being welcomed into someone’s home. The service throughout the night was attentive and warm, setting the tone for what would become an unforgettable dining experience.

Although I opted out of the wine pairing (it was a regular working day after all), I couldn’t resist exploring a few local bottles. I started with a zero-dosage traditional method sparkling wine from Greece—elegant and bone dry, with a beautiful tension.

Throughout the night, I sampled a few more wines, including selections from Tinos and Samos islands. Each one brought a different texture and personality to the meal, just like the courses themselves.

At Soil, you’re welcomed by the chefs themselves. Their kitchen is visible right at the entrance, buzzing with calm focus. When I left, I couldn’t help but stop and tell them my highlights—there were many.

The menu unfolded in elegant waves, each dish a seasonal snapshot of Greece.

The Spring Menu is a masterclass in seasonal balance and precision, beginning with a delicate Oyster dressed in osetra caviar and fermented cucumber, layered over a thousand-leaf crisp that offered crunch, brine, and freshness in perfect harmony.

Next came Amberjack, served raw with kiwi, green apple, and horseradish—bright, zesty, and with just the right whisper of heat. A beautiful palate opener.

One of the highlights of the evening was the Shrimp with orange, mussels, and marigold. Presented wrapped in a seaweed "blanket" infused with aromatic herbs, the shrimp was then delicately plated on its own—colourful, bold, and fragrant, each bite was a celebration of both land and sea.

The 72-Day Dry Aged Beef followed, paired with cherry plum, pomegranate, and aged beetroot. It was earthy and rich, yet lifted by the fruit and root elements, showcasing an intelligent balance of umami and acidity.

For a playful interlude, the Eel Mini Burger arrived with guanciale, vadouvan, and sorrel—unctuous and unexpected. There was an option to add osetra or beluga caviar, a nod to indulgence that I can only imagine elevates this already decadent bite.

The menu continued with Peas, paired with nettle, sorrel, and pistachio—a study in green, vibrant and silky, full of garden-fresh character.

Then came ‘Chili-liliko’, a creative combination of red pepper, basil vinegar, and chili. While I didn’t opt for the optional lobster addition, the dish was still punchy and refreshing.

The Chanterelle dish, with hazelnut, wild garlic, and koji, brought a sense of woodland depth—earthy, nutty, and slightly fermented, offering a shift in tempo before the final savoury course: xo-Goat, served with aspromitiko beans from Limnos and a deeply flavourful xo sauce. (An upgrade to Wagyu A5 from Kagoshima was available for the decadent-minded.)

Desserts were equally considered and elegant. Branch, made with xigalo cheese, berries, and carob, was both creamy and tangy, followed by Pear with pecan, yogurt, and peppermint—a cooling and balanced end. Then came Topinambur with mandarin, black garlic, and chestnut, a dish that played on unexpected combinations and rounded the sweet section with sophistication.

Finally, a tiny Lime Macaron with raspberries, followed by Pâte de Fruit in pineapple and red chili, and a Chocolate Selection to close.

SOIL offers more than a tasting menu—it offers a glimpse into a philosophy of balance, attention to detail, and genuine hospitality. A restaurant where flavours are layered thoughtfully, the service is seamless, and the entire experience is infused with a quiet elegance.